Friday, October 9, 2009

Diverse varieties of Indian Embroideries

Embroidery can be defined as Painting with a Needle? That's what I think embroidery is. Isn't embroidery a form of self expression for us women? The fabric is a canvas, where we women, paint pictures our lives, reflecting our desires, hopes, aspirations, using the colours of our cultures, traditions, religious beliefs and regional influences.

In India, for the Rich, embroidery always meant flaunting their wealth, status and for standing out amongst others. For the poor and middle class, it is a way to strengthen old and much used cloth, to cover tear and wear, to lengthen life of the clothes for some more time, to indicate the region or group to which they belong and a way to reflect the love of the woman doing it for her man or son or daughter. I for one believe that embroideries are an expression of our love for the person for whom we are stitching them.

Indian embroideries according to me can be broadly classified into two categories:
  • The Folk and Tribal embroideries and
  • The embroideries for the Rich and the Nobility or Urban
What is amazing is that  most of the Indian embroideries are folk or tribal embroideries and came from the hands of the nomads, villages and the poor. Due to invasions and trade links with other cultures and countries, there was always an intermingling between the people from different areas so also their cultures, languages, arts and crafts and cuisines. This has greatly influenced our arts and crafts and also embroideries to a great extent and evolved in into a very beautiful art.

The following are the various types/styles of Indian embroideries ;
  1. Aari Bharath
  2. Ahir Bharath
  3. Abhla Bharath 
  4. Agothi
  5. Applique
  6. Bagh
  7. Banjara
  8. Bharath
  9. Bidri
  10. Chamba
  11. Chikankari
  12. Darawadi
  13. Dhebaria
  14. Gota Kinara
  15. Heer Bharath
  16. Jhat
  17. Kabira and Khudi Tebha 
  18. Khambhiro
  19. Kharek
  20. Kanbi Bharath
  21. Kanta
  22. Karchobi
  23. Kasuti
  24. Kashida from Bihar
  25. kashida from Kashmir
  26. Kathi
  27. Mochi Bharath
  28. Moti Bharath
  29. Mutwa
  30. Neran
  31. Pakko Bharath
  32. Patch work
  33. Patti ka kaam
  34. Phulkari
  35. Pichwai
  36. Rabari 
  37. Sadu Bharath
  38. Sindhi Taropa 
  39. Soi Bharath
  40. Soof
  41. Sujani
  42. Toda
  43. Zardosi
  44. Leather embroidery


This is the applique and mirror work from Pippli Orissa



This is the patch work with mirrors and gold threads from Gujarath

I have covered major styles here, might have missed some and some may be same technique but with different names. As I am still gathering information on these styles, I am learning along with you all. So as and when I take up a particular style, I will try to give as much information about it as possible. But the subject is so vast and material is not so easily available. I am referring various books and articles and trying to bring them all together and organise them into proper form. Let us see. But if any one reading this post can add to or correct it, I will be very happy please.

2 comments:

Lakshmi said...

shailaja,
it wouls be more useful if you can provide worked patterns for each style of Indian embroidery.
good information...

Ms Sharma said...

Thank you Lakshmi, I would be posting as and when I take up each style separately